La Cosmopolita – A Malaga Gem With a NY Connection

They really love their long names in Spain. Officially on Google its “La Cosmopolita Malagueña | Dani Carnero | Restaurant in Malaga”. After getting a strong worded letter from Google about the name and use of special characters they decided to shorten their next project to “La Cosmo Malagueña | Dani Carnero | Restaurant in Malaga”. Yes, these are two different restaurants in the heart of Malaga’s vivacious center, and I sampled one of them. The long one. It was so good, I just had to come back the next day. Well, sort of…

Malaga’s center will make you cancel all museums, castles, cathedral, anything involved walking uphill, and beach plans. Especially if this is your last leg of a long trip. Its a maze of cuteness. The architecture, the shops, the scene, the art, the fashion, will make you want to walk and rewalk the same streets just in case you missed something. Exploring other neighborhoods like Soho was interesting but felt like a waste of time for us tourists. Note to the Urban planners of the world: Unless you have a street named Houston, stop calling your neighborhoods Soho and Noho. Its getting old, and silly.

La Cosmopolita could not have been in a more touristy area. Its entirely surrounded by Tapas Bars and all sorts of other food options. For the casual diners who dont necessarily need to have the best Ajoblanco in the city, but just want to sit down somewhere and people watch, there are options galore. But for the rest of us freaks who derive much of the pleasure from months of research, you want to check out La Cosmopolita, and its Michelin approved sisters. While not every dish worked, the ones that did more than made up for it.

Lets start with the one clear dud. Crab omelette. Reviewers made this a must get, and since I love crab and everything egg, I just had to sample it. But it just didnt work for us, especially while smothered with that crab sauce. The profile flavors of fishy seafood and eggs in general should not be combined, unless you posses the creativity to make it work.

Moving on to the hits. Mollete de Atún, one of their specialties is like the best raw tuna sandwich you’ll ever find. Mollete translates to a muffin (like an English Muffin I suppose), but its actually IGP protected buns from Antequera. Its a glorious, well balanced combination. Another hit, perhaps the big one came in the form of steak tartare. Pure joy with every morsel. I dont recall eating tartare this good even in Paris recently.

The Tuna, Cadiz style, comes like a stew with onions was serviceable. Not something I’d order again, but I do like this style which we enjoyed numerous times on this trip. Payoya cheesecake to finish off was sensational. One of the better cheesecakes of the trip (we had quite a bit). Love that funk from the Payoya goat cheese. Didnt try more, since some of the us got sick and stayed in the hotel room. So it was an impromptu date between Mrs Z and I on our first evening in Malaga.

But that’s not the end of the story. This was by far our favorite staff of the trip. Not due to their over the top professionalism, but goofiness. From the waiter that decided to grab my phone to take a better picture (he didnt), to the British woman, and the chubby jokester who brings the Panna Cotta to the table next to us while shaking it to show how it jiggles, its the type of dysfunctional family you want every restaurant to have. By the end of all this (span of two days) the chubby waiter hugged me more than Mrs Z hugged me all year. TMI? Not really.

Why did I go there again the next day you may be asking. Not to eat. When Mr Chubby (we were having so much fun that we forgot to formally introduce each other) learned where I was from, he replied “Oh, our chef is from NYC. He used to own a restaurant called Da Andrea”, 😲😲😲. “but he’s not here today. Come back tomorrow”. If you’ve been following me for a long time, you’d know that Da Andrea used to be my favorite restaurant in NYC years ago. I spent birthdays there, among other functions. I was introduced to proper Italian food, and even some of my favorite wine at Da Andrea. But I never really knew the owners, who apparently sold Da Andrea not too long ago. Needless to say coming back the next day and conversing with the man, the legend was a trip highlight.

This is Alhambra

The second most visited site in Spain after La Sagrada Familia is a bucket list item you didnt know you have. It’s the first thing you have to book when planning your Andalucia trip, and it’s the main reason visitors flock to Granada. When we visited in mid April, it was sold out through May according to our trusted guide Asier Garmendia.

No pictures, videos, stories, will properly prepare you for the Alhambra. You will mostly see pictures of what looks like a fortress from a distance. But what you’ll find inside is an entire city dating back to medieval Islam. The only such preserved city in the world that survived 800 years of earthquakes. Constructed by multiple generations of Sultans (Nasrid Dynasty) between 1238 and 1492, its the last Muslim stronghold to rule Spain.

Its essentially a combination of Moorish fortresses, palaces, courtyards, and gardens + one palace by a Spanish ruler, Emperor Charles V, for good measure. It’s something straight out of Game of Thrones. Although unlike other palaces and castles in the area (Seville’s Alcázar, Castillo Almodovar del Rio), Alhambra wasn’t featured in GOT. Other than some documentaries, Anthony Bourdain’s Parts Unknown, and some old movies nothing was filmed here. Getting a permit must be pretty tough these days. It took a small miracle for GOT to get the OK from the Alcázar.

Allow 3-4 hours to see it so bring your favorite Granola bars from home, and/or those oily salty almonds you’ll see in markets and stores. It’s one site best appreciated with a guide, and Asier is your man. He will take care of the tickets, and he knows this complex inside out, besides possessing a wealth of information. You’ll see how math, poetry, water and time play such key roles with the architecture. You’ll hear stories that would make Telenovela producers take notes.

The gardens of Generalife alone are worth the price of admission. Ever heard of the Julio Iglesias Rose? You can find it here. Any Washington Irving fans here? I didnt think so. He was inspired to write Tales of the Alhambra while living inside it. People live inside Alhambra even today. Remarkable considering the 6000 guests who come here every day.

Simply put this place is something else. Unlike anything we’ve ever seen. It makes you wish you were a better photographer, or in my case, a photographer. Add it to the top half of the mental list. Somewhere between Český Krumlov and Buenos Aires.

Blanca Paloma {Seville} – Game of Prawns

Once you cross the bridge into the colorful Triana neighborhood in Seville, you will find yourself glaring at the scene of Calle San Jacinto, before joining the scene. Close the street to car and horse traffic and you get a party. Yes, in Seville you need to also keep in mind horses, especially during the April Feria. That means declaring a designated horse poop spotter that leads the pack and warns the rest of the group. Preferably the one that had the least Tinto de Veranos for lunch. It’s V E R A N O! If you are Italophiles like us, you will struggle with the name big time.

Once you reach the end of the pedestrian area, continue walking one more block. I know, I know, youve already seen three churches today, a Game of Thrones site (Alcázar), walked 15 miles, and want to settle at one of the inviting joints on the Calle for another Tinto de Varena. But keep going. Deliciousness awaits.

Blanca Paloma, the restaurant, not the singer, is a Triana institution. Its the only restaurant I encountered in Seville that takes reservations that I couldn’t make. Even my hotel, the excellent El Rey Moro had difficulties getting someone to pick up the phone. But dont despair. Most just show up. And if you show up when they open for lunch or dinner, you can snag a table inside or out.

We were the first team to arrive (Amazing Race fans here) prior to opening. BTW, you can pretty much forget what Google tells you about opening times in Spain. Its more like a probability. Some places can open at that time, but with the kitchen actually opening 30-60 minutes later. Meaning you can just hang out and have a Tinto de Verona. But Blanca Paloma and its kitchen opened as promised at the American lunch time of 12:30. The locals eat lunch after 2pm, and dinner after 9pm. We gave it a shot, but gave up on day one.

Prior to my visit, I got a sense that anything and everything shrimp is the name of the game at BP, and I’m more convinced now. But I’m guessing you cant have many wrongs here no matter what you get. Eggplant stuffed with shrimp – Si please. Probably our top eggplant dish in eggplant loving Andalucia. Mini garlic shrimp burgers, immensely flavorful. And then you get the phenomenal Shrimp a la Plancha that I saw many eating all over Calle San Jacinto.

Crab Croquetas was yet more awesomeness. Unlike other Croquetas we had, there was flavor and texture here. One of the surprising items we’ve seen on various menus is Canelones, like the Spanish Cannelloni. This one stuffed with Iberian pork and Roquefort sauce. Exquisite stuff. The only thing that was average here was the cakes. They ran out of Torrija before opening somehow! Maybe one of the cooks had a tough breakup last night. South of Spain rule of thumb: Order Torrija and/or cheesecake for dessert everywhere.

Blanca Paloma also served one of the better Vermouths of the trip. After trying the Spanish stand-alone Vermouth at Txikito in NYC, I was worried that its not really for me, but throughout my trip I couldnt get enough of it.

After the meal, make sure to check out the market and some of the tile stores around the area. Like Ceramica Triana, and Ceramica Santas Justa y Rufina where the friendly owner speaks excellent English, and lets you break things!

Ronda – The Accidental Romantic Tourist

Once in a blue moon you come across the perfect tourist town. It was in Segovia in 2019 where I realized what it takes to be one. Small, unique, food destination, plenty to do and see for tourists, and one you want to experience in the morning and evening where the tour buses leave. Ronda – check, check, check and then some.

The only thing missing that Segovia had was a local vibe in the evening, but that’s because of the clear separation between the touristy historic center and the rest of the city where the locals hang out. For us tourists, we couldnt get enough of the center including its tremendous food offerings. While most people come here on a day trip or stay overnight, by the time you finish reading this post hopefully you’ll see why it’s a mistake. You need at least two nights.

Ronda is the type of place you want to take your spouse on a surprise romantic getaway. Except unless you live in the south of Spain, its fairly hard to do. When we visited the excellent Ramos-Paul winery nearby, we met a couple from Jerez where the guy did exactly that to his wife and one month old daughter. A surprise day trip to Ronda on her birthday. The daughter wasnt amused.

Right near Puente Nuevo, the “new” bridge that took 34 years to built in 1793 after the previous bridge collapsed and killed 50, there’s this interesting mural. It shows the town’s unique landscape and quotes from various romantic travelers that found inspiration in Ronda. That did not include more recent names like Ernest Hemingway and Orson Wells who spent significant time here, and even more recently Michelle Obama. Ronda is so tiny and relatively unknown, when someone like Michelle Obama visits, people still talk about it 15 years later.

Exploring the majestic Puente Nuevo alone, from the top and bottom requires a few good hours. They recently reopened a path that leads closer to the bridge where you can get a close look at the chasm that divides the city. You need to wear a helmet for this one. The first trip where we had to wear a helmet, not once but twice. The other one being an hour away at the eyepopping Caminito del Rey hike. More on that on another day.

But the main reason to stay an extra night or three is the area, Serrania de Ronda, which rivals Tuscany as perhaps the most beautiful region we’ve ever seen. Just north of Ronda you got a wine region that produces surprisingly robust reds, judging from our Ramos-Paul visit. The wines are still affordable because this is not Rioja.

10 minutes out you have the Reservatauro Ronda, a horse and bull farm where you can learn about the rich history of Ronda bull fighting and horse breeding. Further out you have another majestic town, Setenil de las Bodegas where houses are built into the cliffs. And then you have other whitewashed towns like beautiful Olvera not far away. I already mentioned the infamous Caminito an hour away. Plenty to do and see here if you have a few days. Ronda complements the large city filled Andalucian itinerary very well.

Make sure to spend quality time in both the center and old town, the two distinct neighborhoods on both sides of the bridge. Dont dwell too much on individual attractions as every other blog tells you. See the bullring if you must, the second oldest in Spain after Seville, and the oldest constructed entirely of stone. You can also get a good view of it from the rooftop of Hotel Catalonia. Stay at the Parador if you must for the incredible views and to finally say “I stayed at the Parador in Ronda” at cocktail parties. Though between us friends, not the most comfortable hotel.

Dining in Ronda requires its own dedicated blog posts. Pound for pound Ronda may be the top food destination in Andalucía for its size. Between the amazing Casa Mateos, the legendary El Lechuguita, and Benito Gómez’s Tragatá, there’s your 2-3 days of heavenly eating right there. We managed two of the three. Every conversation about food with a local results in “Oh you have to go to Tragatá and Casa Mateos”. One even helped us with what to order at the latter. Spoiler alert: Sickest goat cheese salad ever.

The 15 Best Things we Ate in Spain (Reblog)

Leaving for a few weeks, so leaving an oldie but goodie….

The 15 Best Things we Ate in Spain

The Thai Diner Survival Guide

Why should you go?

Thai Diner (aka Uncle Boons 2.0) is one of the most popular if not the most poplar Thai restaurant in NYC that tourists generally dont know about. Dont worry locals, I’m not gonna change that as I dont have that kind of reach. But sharing is caring. One way you can check whether a place is touristy is simply by looking at Trip Advisor reviews compared to the more local Yelp, and Google. A whopping 26 reviews compared to 871 (Yelp), and 1569 (Google). Thats as local as it gets for a Manhattan establishment.

It took me a few visits to warm up to Uncle Boons, but I’m beginning to like Thai Diner even more. The space is more welcoming, and more comfortable (emphasis on more than the predecessor which was fairly uncomfortable). Love the decor, the Pure Thai Cookhouse-like Thai music. I never understood why so many ethnic places play American music. Who wants to listen to Sweet Caroline while munching on Szechuan food. Well, according to Trevor Noah its every single white person, but you know what I mean.

When should you go?

Its always busy, and waits are inevitable. They take a very limited number of reservations, so you can pretty much forget about reserving. But that just means you have a better shot at getting a table than popular places that do take full reservations. I call it the Via Carotta effect. If you are like us and have no problem combining lunch and dinner, than 4pm is your best bet. Even on Sundays there was no line at 4. By 6pm you are well fed and you are good for the rest of the day. Otherwise, come earlier, put your name down, and play tourist in NoLita/Little Italy/Chinatown.

What should you eat?

Its a smart mix of creative and classic. Every meal for many of us starts with the sick Disco Fries and ends with the Coconut Sundae. The latter is a masterpiece that includes candied peanuts, coconut gelato, coconut caramel, and to add much needed coconut flavor, toasted coconut. Another must is the crab fried rice. The Khao Soi is very solid but messy to share if more than two. The Turmeric Roti with the curry dip is terrific, as well as the Phat See Ew with fried chicken (some prefer the other chicken option, but I like the fried). The only dish I’d avoid is the Green Curry with braised beef. Sounds great, but large chunks of meh quality beef isnt doing it for me.

Who should you bring?

Ok, this survival guide is getting ridiculous Ziggy. But hear me out. This is not your typical Thai eatery in NYC where I normally have to do some begging for a little bit of heat. And while its not exactly “Thai spicy”, BYOB (Bring your own Bounty) like Ugly Baby, its bald flavors arent for everyone. Since the spoiled Mrs Z doesnt always remember the names of places we visit, I have to refer to them in other ways. Thai Diner is the “coughing place” after a memorable spicy coughing attack one time. Meaning its not the place for your mother in law’s 70’s bday celebration. Take adventurous eaters that appreciate good food and can handle a bit of heat.

What about Brunch?

Yes, please. This is one of the areas that sets Thai Diner apart, and where the creativity shines. Its a popular Brunch option for many, and one of the reasons is the outstanding, hurt so good, egg sandwich. Its wrapped in Roti that absorbs much heat so its a bit difficult to hold with bare hands, but its worth it. Thai flavors mixed with eggs, even in the morning is like magic. The Thai Tea Babka French Toast is popular as well.

What should I wear?

Khakis, loose clothing, funeral sunglasses for those not used to bald flavors.

Txikito – Just Basque a Move

Whenever someone asks for Spanish Tapas recommendations, if its not in Chelsea it doesn’t enter my mind. Just like Thai restaurants in Hell’s Kitchen, there are mysterious forces that attract some of the top Spanish talents to the neighborhood. As you may know, we are fans of Z-List long timer Tia Pol, but you also got the excellent Salinas, Mercado Little Spain, Casa Dani, El Quijote, Socarrat, and some others. Txikito, smack in the middle of them all, might just be the most important of the bunch.

A 15 y/o in super competitive NYC is approaching legend territory. It’s one of those places Ive been wanting to try for years, but somehow other mysterious forces prevented it, until an impromptu visit the other day. Impromptu and popular places as such means some luck involved. With my Islanders finally winning an important game the other day, and Mrs Z asking me to buy a lottery ticket now that the jackpot is over a Billion (as if 900 mil is pocket change), I might actually do just that.

Two open bar seats had our names on it, though we were asked not to linger for more than two hours. Not only perfectly fine with us, but I had another reason to leave before it got dark. I was sporting new sunglasses and left my regular glasses in the car. We were reminiscing about our California road trip ages ago where I lost my glasses somewhere off route 1 and had to wear prescription sunglasses for the last two days of the trip. I kid you not, the same evening I lost them we heard “I wear my sunglasses at night” on the radio. Yes, it was radio times.

Txikito is Basque, but as with so many ethnic places trying to introduce us to a specific cuisine, it feels more Spanish than Basque. Other than some of the famed Pinxos like Gilda (a skinny homage to Rita Hayworth), the famous Basque cheesecake, and the occasional very Basque mammoth Turbot, my eye didnt spy much Basque. It spied a Russian salad, found all over Spain for some reason. But dont get me wrong, I like this menu. Like a lot…

I dont recall ever eating Octopus Carpaccio this good. A place just outside Taormina’s (Sicily) old town comes to mind but thats about it. Silky smooth buttery perfection. A signature thats been on the menu since 2008. Another winner was a hearty plate of Spanish white beans with shrimp and mussels. The accompanied bread helped us scarpetta the heck out of it.

The expertly cooked Cochinnilo (suckling pig) was exactly as expected. Just crispy enough outside and supremely tender and flavorful inside. Its an ugly looking dish until you start digging in. I care for you readers, just not to the point of videotaping everything like other influencers. But cutting this in slow mo is a droolworthy exercise. Love the Frisée addition but wish it came with another item like potatoes.

The only thing I didnt care for was the pricy white Asparagus special with scallops. Initial bites were good but that one-tone sweetness got boring in a hurry. La Viña-esque cheesecake was satisfying. Esque means “we tried” here, although its been a few years since our visit to La Viña, San Sebastian where the cake was invented. Salinas nearby also serves a fine version.

Other than me still trying to figure out whether I like standalone Spanish red Vermouth, I think I covered everything. Nice atmosphere, smart decor. Although I didnt get a very good look as putting my sunglasses was like announcing “weirdo at seat 12” to the staff. I dont think I’ll wait another 15 years to Basque another move as I do want to try the rice dish and the rest of the menu. Maybe just stay away from the specials

Txikito
240 9th Ave (Chelsea)
Recommended Dishes: Octopus Carpaccio, Beans with shrimp and mussels, Cochinnilo, Cheesecake

Raoul’s – A Date with Quality

When I was 5 years old the world was a crazy place. Wars, chaos, crime, Froot Loops, drugs dominated. 50 years later not much has changed. But much did. I’m sure you all had similar conversation on the differences between growing up then and now. By the time I was 5 I already had my fare share of vodka that I mistook for water, and cigarettes that I did not mistake for something else. A 5 year old smoking after a rough day in day care is unimaginable now.

I may have told this story, but I recently lost some weight. I thought it was good news, but apparently to doctors its a red flag. I was bombarded with questions including whether or not I smoke(d). I answered semi-jokingly that I smoked when I was 5-6. But the elderly doctor didnt quite get the joke, or heard me properly, put me down as an ex-smoker and sent me for a chest MRI and other tests. I will never joke with doctors again. I thought I learned that lesson during the vasectomy.

When I was 5, opening a restaurant in Soho was much different than today. In the 70’s Soho was a gritty neighborhood, full of starving artists, factories, and deserted streets. Even in the 80’s when we moved to Brooklyn, we would steer clear of that area. But somehow two brothers from Alsace, France managed to open a place that not only survived 50 years, but booked solid every night these days.

Just like the nearby Minetta Tavern and a few other places, stepping inside Raoul’s is like stepping inside a movie set. Not surprisingly it was featured in movies/shows such as The Departed, and Sex and the City. Its history reads like a Netflix series, with at least one episode about discovering Thomas Keller, and some about the many famous artists that used to hang out there.

Raoul’s is an old school French bistro, with the atmosphere and art to match. Much of the art hasnt changed in many years, and we got a good look at it from our booth right under its famed nude painting. They are known for the Steak au Poivre, a secret bar burger that’s no longer a secret and martinis. Their classic Aviation cocktail made me shop for the ingredients as soon as I got home. I need a larger house for my bar.

As much as I complain about pricy bread courses, I almost always get them and enjoy them. No exception here with the Sourdough Baguette, Country Wheat, room term butter, sea salt, and the kind of radishes you stare longer than usual at the supermarket.

As far as Pates go it doesnt get much better than Raoul’s Pate Maison. French Ham and Compté Beignets with truffle remoulade were explosive little schweddy balls. Probably truffle oil in the remoulade but it works here. Maine Lobster Tortellini were supremely flavorful as well but too small of an app to share for four. The Jambalaya Risotto was another outstanding dish.

But the reason I took my family here was the Steak au Poivre. Not quite the tenderness and flavor of say, a Claro Tenderloin, but this was a decent size, and better than some I had in Paris. Perfectly cooked meat and just peppery and creamy enough. Pictured is a half. When I grow up I would love to have a whole one.

Bread pudding was solid NOLA-esque, but also too tiny to share, even though we were too stuffed anyway at this point. The profiteroles would have been a better option. My oldest gave Raoul’s a complement very few outside EWZ, and Hungry Onion (where some ex Chowhounds hang out) understand. “Foxface quality”

Raoul’s
180 Prince St (Soho)
Recommended Dishes: Bread, Pate Maison, Beignets, Tortellini, Jambalaya Risotto, Steak au Poivre, Bread pudding

10 Reasons Why I Like Ulivo

Ulivo, in the heart of NoMad isnt particularly known like a Lilia, Rezdora, or a Via Carota. It’s just one of a myriad of regional Italian in that part of the city, and unless you live nearby, it’s sometimes easy to forget it even exists. But there’s a reason it survived 8 years including a pandemic. 10 reasons in fact.

Fresh Pasta Galore – Gotta start with the bread and butter. On my first visit I was introduced to what I dubbed The Widow Maker. Lets just say its not exactly the pasta maker my kids bought me for Xmas. This is what you need in order to create a pasta centric menu, responsible for a dozen items in this case. Add a seasoned Sardinian chef and proper raw materials, and you get magic on a plate. Whether its Paccheri with braised tuna belly, Pici, Pappardelle or anything else that starts with P, you are in for a treat.

Underrated Pizza – While the focus initially was on fresh pasta, at some point they added another “Widow Maker”, an imported pizza oven producing Neapolitan pies within seconds. A capable pizzaiolo and top notch ingredients of course help. Even with this pasta lineup, I have a hard time not ordering at least one Diavola on every visit.

Seasoned Chef – He wont like me calling him seasoned (twice now), but Chef/owner/pasta wizard Emanuel Concas has been around, and can flat out cook. Since completing culinary school in Italy, he’s been cooking all over the world before settling in NYC. He started showcasing that talent in Hell’s Kitchen’s Mercato, his first restaurant, before opening Ulivo with his partner. When you meet him, you realize how passionate he is about food in general, including Asian and other cuisines.

The dependable starter – In a city that’s becoming fully a la carte including bread, olives and other used to be free items, its always refreshing to get a delectable free starter once in a while. Every meal in Mercato and Ulivo starts with fresh bread and a lentil dip plate that we lick to the point of no washing necessary.

The location – I may be fishing here, but the location in the heart of NoMad can not be any more central. No matter where I am in the city it seems, I’m fairly close to Ulivo.

Great Cocktails – Beverage director Antonello Iacca has been mixing them since he was a child. That explain some of the driving I’ve seen in Puglia. The simple but potent Gin-zilla is an award winner, but everything I’ve had here is nicely balanced.

The Olive Oil – As the name suggests, EVOO is an important aspect here, and in Italian cooking overall. To the rest of us its a concept, but for this Italian generation using the highest grade raw materials they can find is the only way they know.

Island Touch – Another thing that separates Ulivo is Sardinian and Sicilian specialties you wont find anywhere else, like Malloreddus alla Campidanese, Busiate, and the more common rigatoni alla norma.

Busiate con Pesto alla Trapanese – Worth its own entry. Its simple and unique at the same time. The consistency of the Busiate, along with the almonds, tomato, basil and plenty of garlic. The only dish I’ve ordered every single visit I think.

Easy to pop in – This is important to me. So many restaurants in NYC call themselves “corner neighborhood Italian”, yet require a month in advance to reserve. Some places are just more under the radar than others, and that doesnt necessarily make them subpar. I like that I can just be in the neighborhood with the family, and pop in unplanned. That to me is a neighborhood joint.

Ulivo
4 W 28th St (5th/Brdwy)
Recommended Dishes: Prosciutto San Daniele, Pizza, Paccheri, Busiate, Gnocchi, Tiramisu

Claro – From Oaxaca With Love

Fuck congestion pricing. There you have it. The first EWZ post that starts with the F word. I felt it was time. For many of us, driving to the city is expensive as it is. We have to pass multiple bridges and tunnels, some of the most expensive in the world, just to face yet another hefty tax for the privilege. And no, there’s practically zero chance that I will rely on a bus late at night, during bad weather and other situations. We’ll most likely still make plenty of trips as my oldest lives there, but I may need to pivot.

That pivot will require to rely more on less discovered neighborhoods like Gowanus, Brooklyn. Go ahead, I’ll wait while you Google it. You can be a 10 time visitor or even a local that never heard of this neighborhood. Although its tucked between the more famous and eatery heavy Park Slope and Carroll Gardens, you only find yourself in industrial Gowanus if you go to Whole Foods. It looks and feels like a Red Hook extension. The kind of neighborhood where dads playing ukuleles in front of babies in a brewery isnt out of the ordinary.

Add Claro as another reason to go. From the outside and in it looks like your typical rustic Red Hook/Gowanus neighborhood joint. But the food tells a different story. It may sound like a cliche, but if there’s one thing I learned in Mexico City last year, was that Mexican food in the US is quite different than Mexican food there. You expect it but dont realize the extent when you spend time there. Claro, although Oaxacan by nature, is closer to the full service CDMX experience than any place I’ve been to in NYC.

You can visit Claro a dozen times without realizing it boasted a Michelin star until last year. The prices do reflect higher end Mexican, but that was also the case before the Michelin star. Many restaurants like Rezdora, Jeju Noodle Bar often change menus and even decor to try match Michelin expectations, but you get the sense that Claro just wanted to stay the same. Maybe that’s why they couldnt maintain the star.

Masa, Mezcal, and superb raw materials is the name of the game. A concentrated menu that will make you want to bring friends that appreciate good food. While picky eaters can manage, there’s not enough variety to satisfy. Though the excellent Mezcal lineup and based drinks can keep them entertained.

We started with Tuna Tostada, the only dish I’ve had here before. The tuna was bright and flavorful, as were the rest of the ingredients. But its closer to a refreshing salad than a Tostada. Not a bad thing. The Garnachas de Venado was the first moment of brilliance. Two thick fried corn tortillas shaped like small hockey pucks, topped with braised venison. But what made the dish was the accompanied Curtido (fermented cabbage). Another winner was the outstanding Black Bass with green mole, topped with smoked Trout roe, and another beautiful concoction of Brussel sprouts, cabbage, and more.

But the piece de resistance was the Mole Negro. As the hefty price ($68) suggests, its more of a dish for two. It featured a succulent Bone Marrow with fried mole that added a nice texture, and a perfectly cooked short rib sitting on a bed of their famous mole. But it was the ugly duckling, a sad looking Tenderloin that was one of the best cooked meats I’ve had in a long time. It comes with Negi Onion (fancy for scallions), and their excellent tortillas. Their Masa is made in-house from imported Oaxacan corn.

Arroz con Leche with pineapple was the perfect finish to a rare flawless meal. Not too sweet, and not the soupy variety. As for drinks, you got your Mezcal pairing options, but we opted for Mezcal based drinks which were both well balanced and superb. Jungla – Milk Piunch for me, San Pascualito Rey for her. Go!

Claro
284 3rd Ave (Brooklyn)
Recommended Dishes: Tuna Tostada, Garnachas de Venado, Black Bass, Mole Negro, Arroz con Leche